One more year, the Paris Haute Couture Week has come to an end; four days of shows in which the most legendary maisons demonstrate to the whole world that haute couture is still a very lively business that uniquely combines art, fashion, exclusivity and spectacle.
They may not be the most avant-garde or the most transgressive (sorry, Mr.Galliano), but, of all that has been presented, these have been our favorite shows, and if you’re thirty-five or older, they’ll probably be yours too:
Pier Paolo Piccioli presented a mainly daytime collection based on simple but striking silhouettes and a masterful use of color. Think luxury minimalism but with Italian roots.
When it comes to Haute Couture, Chanel simply cannot be left off the list. However, this year’s collection, inspired by the aesthetics of classical ballet, seemed to us somewhat strange and disjointed. Taken separately the garments are ethereal, feminine and true to Chanel DNA; on the models on the runway, layered (seemingly) without rhyme or reason, they produce looks with proportions and volumes that are hardly flattering, in our opinion.
Dreamy Haute Couture; feminine, flattering creations, exquisite materials and countless hours of craftsmanship. This year’s inspiration comes from Greco-Roman sculpture, with draped dresses that seem to slide subtly down the body, secured with spectacular embroidery and beading motifs.
Saab embodies like no other that mix of elegance, femininity and limitless opulence that characterizes Lebanese designers. Unlike Zuhair Murad, he is more modest in his collections (in the sense of clothing); jewel-like fabrics, impossible embroidery and dramatic volumes are combined with high necklines, long sleeves and skirts without slits, achieving a more solemn and majestic effect.
Another no less impressive display of fabrics and materials to reinterpret, one more season, the Armani style: angular silhouettes, sharp shoulders, refined tailoring, origami inspiration… combined this year with vague references to the traditional clothing of different countries around the world. It is what the press release described as “a comprehensive journey from West to East”. Devotees of the Italian master will not be disappointed.