Our favorite shows from the Madrid Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

by Maje Pérez-Ramos

From 16 to 19 September, Spanish fashion realived after the pandemic parenthesis. A zest for life is noticeable in many collections, and this were our favorite shows here in FBL:


For the next SS season, twins Aitor and Iñaki Muñoz presented a collection inspired by artistic movements from the XIX century, in this case the work of Van Gogh. The presentation’s leitmotiv was Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, a painting whose luminous palette has inspired the prints for this collection. Romantic and flowy dresses wore with Suma Cruz jewels designed specially for the show, a relaxed and country-like mise en place and the words of Spanish writer Espido Freire guiding us through the event.

Jorge Vázquez

Vazquez celebrates 20 years in business, as one of the most important Spanish designer and creative director for sopanish brand Pertegaz.  In his show/breakfast at the Madrid Mandarin Oriental Ritz, the models presented a feminine end Parisian-inspired collection to a carefully chosen audience of influencers, clients and socialites. References to many decades, and mostly classic silhouettes, with the occasional daring touch (short leggins in a few looks, for example).  Old-school elegance updated.


Un jardín flotante was the name of this collection, with which Juan duyos comes back to the MBFW after the pandemic. Joie de vivre, holidays and fair weather, inspired by the island of Madeira. A color palette rich and diverse, with plenty of prints to mix and match, and volumes that celebrate the woman’s silhouette: waistlines, voluminous skirts, dramatic sleeves under naked shoulders… Powerful accessories such as hats and bags crafted with artisanal techniques and a simple yet flattering hair and make up rounded up this show, who recreated a traditional Portuguese market.

Teresa Helbig

From Madeira to L.A. Barcelona-born designer Teresa Helbig celebrates 25 in the fashion industry and to mark the occasion presentes a lively and cheerful collection inspired by the L.A. from the 70’s American movies: think about Valley of the DollsOnce upon a time in Hollywood, Sharon Tate… color, ruffles,  sexy but comfortable mini skirts and jumpsuits, XXL sunnies and flowy manes. A tribute to the 70’s sexy, joyful and carefree.

Hannibal Laguna

No one in the MBFW takes glamour so seriously as Hannibal Laguna. This time presented Cosmology, a collection where black was the main color, with a handful of looks in silver and red.  The  gowns, a extravaganza of sheer fabrics, embroidery, ruffles and dramatic volumes glided among sculptures designed by Laguna himself, displayed at the runway. The models wore sleek half-updos and evening make up. Some of them even rocked black sunglasses, a la Anita Ekberg in the Dolce Vita, a sexy and humorous touch among so much glamour.

404 Studio

Special mention deserves 404 Studio, whose creative director, Anaïs Vauxcelles, won this edition’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Talent award. The designer presented a collection inspired by the world of French animation film“La planeta sauvage” (Rene Laloux, 1973). Different and revealing knitwear and colorists and postmodern beauty looks for a younger and more fashion-forward audience.

Imáges: Fashion Week Hola, Ailanto y Suma Cruz, Colección “La Planète Sauvage” de Anaïs Vauxcelles para 404 Studio. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent.

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